There's no single answer. Grass grows when it's warm and wet, and sits when it's cool. On this coast that means fast growth for much of the year and a slower patch in winter.
A rough guide
This is a rule of thumb, not a promise.
- Late spring to early autumn: every one to two weeks. Warm, humid, lots of rain. The lawn grows quickly and falls behind if you skip a visit.
- Autumn and spring shoulders: about every two to three weeks.
- Winter: every three to four weeks, sometimes longer. Growth slows down, especially in shade.
The one-third rule
Try not to cut more than about a third of the blade length in a single mow. Take too much off and the lawn gets stressed, goes patchy and lets weeds in. If it has got long, bring it down in two stages a few days apart instead of one scalp.
Grass type changes it
Kikuyu is fast and tough, and spreads into garden beds, so edges need regular attention. Buffalo likes being a bit longer and copes better in shade. Couch makes a fine, dense lawn but wants regular mowing. If you don't know what you have, send a photo.
Spots that behave differently
Shade, sandy soil, and coastal wind all slow things down or change how the lawn grows. A block with a lot of shade may need much less than a sunny one down the road.
Mowing height by grass type
Turf growers publish ranges, and they're fairly consistent. As a rough guide:
- Couch: about 10 to 30 mm, depending on the variety.
- Buffalo: about 30 to 50 mm, and higher again in shade.
- Kikuyu: about 30 to 50 mm.
Go to the upper end in hot, dry weather or when the lawn is stressed, and lower in the cooler months when it's growing less and drying out less. Cutting buffalo as short as couch is a common mistake. It thins out, goes patchy and lets weeds in.
Don't scalp it
Scalping is when the mower takes the grass down to bare stems or soil, leaving yellow-brown patches. It tends to happen on uneven ground, after a long gap between mows, or when the blades are set too low. The fix is mowing more often at a sensible height, not cutting shorter.
Dry grass, sharp blades
Wet grass clumps, clogs the mower and tears. Wait for it to dry. Blunt blades rip the tips of the grass instead of cutting them, which leaves a pale, ragged look. If your lawn looks frayed an hour after mowing, sharpen the blades.
Clippings: leave or bag?
On a lawn that's mowed regularly, short clippings can be left to break down. They return nutrients and moisture. If the grass is long, wet, or has gone to seed, bag it. A thick mat of clippings smothers the lawn underneath. If weeds are going to seed, bag those clippings too so they don't spread.
Change direction
Mowing in the same lines every time can leave ruts and make the grass lean one way. Alternating direction each visit gives a more even finish.
Edges and borders
Kikuyu in particular creeps over paths and into garden beds. Cutting a clean edge along every hard surface once a month or so keeps it under control and does more for how a lawn looks than almost anything else.
DIY or regular run?
If you've got time and a mower, the above is enough. If the schedule keeps getting away from you, a regular fortnightly or monthly visit keeps it in shape. See lawn mowing for how that works, or the gardener page for everything else.
Looking for the other end? The wet season checklist covers what to do before the heavy rain.