A TV bracket is only as secure as what it's screwed into. This is what to know before it goes on the wall.
Plasterboard on timber studs
The most common. Plasterboard alone can't hold a TV, so the bracket needs to go into the timber studs behind it. Studs are usually spaced at regular intervals, but they vary, and there can be pipes or cables in the cavity. Check before you drill.
Plasterboard on steel studs
Common in newer units and commercial buildings. Steel studs need the right fixings for thin metal, not ordinary wood screws.
Brick and concrete
Solid and strong, and ideal for heavy TVs, but it needs a masonry drill and the right anchors for the material. Hollow or soft brick calls for different anchors from dense concrete.
Render, cladding and weatherboard
Exterior and some interior walls. Fixings need to reach the frame behind the cladding, and any holes through external walls have to be sealed to keep water out.
Cables and power
Cables hidden inside a wall are a separate job. Running a new power point is electrical work that needs a licensed electrician. A handyman can mount the TV and tidy cables on the surface, or fit a cable cover, but power outlets behind the TV are for a licensed electrician.
Heights and position
Sit where you'd normally watch from and mark where your eyes land. The middle of the screen should be about there. Mounting too high is the most common mistake.
Weight and size
Check the TV's weight and the bracket's rated load. Large TVs on swing arms put more leverage on the fixings than a flat bracket, so they need more care.
See TV mounting for how we do it, and anchoring tall furniture for furniture safety.
What to send
A photo of the wall, the TV size and weight if you know them, and the bracket if you've bought one. It lets us confirm the fixings before we arrive.